Friday, May 1, 2009

Latest Anti-Fashion Trend


The new anti-fashion movement and trend is making its mark on the streets of Los Angeles by fashion maivens, Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen. They seem to be resisting their old designer's labels and moving towards a more comfortable look, such as flats and boot cut jeans. You can read more about this at: http://www.style.com/stylefile/2009/04/the-olsens-anti-fashion-statement/

Hipsters



A predominent street trend seen in neighborhoods across the country including the Mission in San Francisco, Williamsburg in New York and Wicker Park in San Francisco is hipster. Hipster is a sub-culture of somewhat affluent 20-year olds, who buy vintage, love skinny jeans, turned
American Apparel upside down, listen to indie music, love art, smoke cigarettes and have a lot of tattoos. Now...I'm kind of just making a generalization here but they really have dominated the street trend in the last 2-3 years. Here is an image of some hipsters in New York.

This image was adopted from: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://civilizer.files.wordpress.com/2007/10/damn-hipsters.jpg&imgrefurl=http://civilizer.wordpress.com/2007/10/08/arcade-fire-nada-surf-fans-please-dont-have-kids/&usg=__Bbdkd7Pq6W9IqQiSGG1a_9c9E9o=&h=332&w=415&sz=177&hl=en&start=24&um=1&tbnid=uhVQkKTigBPPdM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=125&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dhipsters%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D18%26um%3D1

Hipsters


Helmut Lang Designers, Michael and Nicole Colovos, tooked the hipster look to the runway this year in New York for their Fall 2009 menswear collection. The collection included skinny-legged pants, plaid shirts, leather jackets, boots, which are all very prevalent garments visible in the hipster scene today.

This image was adopted from: men.style.com

Hipsters


Another hipster look seen on the runway this year in New York was by Chloe Sevigny for O.C. Chloe Sevigny modeled her own "hipster" designs and look with a vintage-looking blouse and leather skirt and heels. Other looks for her collection included over-sized cardigans and button-up shirts for women and leggings.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Grunge


Grunge began in Seattle in the late 1980s...but everyone remembers the punk influenced sounds of Nirvana in the 1990s. This new grunge attitude on life created an enormous street trend among the youth around the United States. Grunge trends include, plaid shirts, loose-fitting clothing, holes, tears...basically wearing anything looking dirty and somewhat "bum-like" as well as buying vintage and non-designer. Grunge was the actual beginning of the anti-fashion movement. Here is an image of Nirvana in the early 90s.

This image was adopted from: http://meginthecity.files.wordpress.com/2008/04/200px-nirvana_band_four_members.jpg

Grunge


Marc Jacobs was the first designer to actually put Grunge on the runwaywhile working for designer, Perry Ellis, in New York in 1992. Jacobs brought the grunge look more mainstream by sending out models in flannel shirts, Doc Martenesque boots, tattered clothing, etc. etc. Shortly thereafter, Jacobs was fired.

This image was adopted from: http://www.marcosabino.com/pratodia/06-06-05/Grunge%202%20-%20Marc%20Jacobs%20para%20Perry%20Ellis%201993%20spring.jpg

Grunge


More recently in Milan, Missoni's Fall 2009 Menswear collection exhibited some old takes on the grunge look. Each model can be seen in loose-fitting sweaters, jackets and trousers with a mixture of fabrics from knits to cottons and tousled hair.

This image was adopted from: http://media.photobucket.com/image/grunge%20%25252B%20runway/Foreverinfashion/MissoniFall2009Runway.jpg

Zoot Suits


Zoot suits made their debut in inner city neighborhoods by the Latino Americans and African Americans during the 1920s and 1930s primarily in Chicago, Los Angeles and New York City. The Zoot suit comprised of a very boxy and broad shouldered jacket, which was double vented and oversized draped-looking trousers. The men during this time period also wore hats to exemplify this look. However, due to the fabric shortage at the beginning of the war in 1941, Zoot suits were banned from being manufactured and riots broke out in Los Angeles among the minority gangs. Seen here is image of a "young pachuco" zoot suiter in Los Angeles around the early 1940s.

This image was adopted from: http://invention.smithsonian.org/centerpieces/whole_cloth/u7sf/u7images/act7/p91.gif

Zoot Suits


Jean Paul Gaultier brought back the Zoot suit this year at his Fall 2009 menswear collection in Paris. Not only did Gaultier reference the minority group who created this suit, he found an entirely new way to resurrect it through embellishment, straps, outlandish hats and shoes, as well as fabric choices. Leave it to Gaultier to mix fantasy with reality.

This image was adopted from: men.style.com

Zoot Suits


This year in Paris, Raf Simmons' Fall 2009 menswear collection definitely took some influence from the Zoot suit. Simmons had a mixture of really tailored and fitted suits and then brought in a suit jacket, trousers and tie that was over-sized and colorful.

This image was adopted from: men.style.com

Beatniks


The Beat Generation of the 1940s and 1950s, was a subculture of intellects, writers, artists and musicians "beat" down by society. Women of the Beat Generation is a book I have read a dozen times and will continue to read. Most of the men during this time period receive the most recognization, such as Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac and William Burroughs. However, the women of this generation, like Hettie Jones, Diane di Prima and Elise Cowen are also very inspirational. The street trends created by the beatniks included avant-garde looks considered "cool", with garments primarily in black and unadorned.
This picture of Allen Ginsberg and Elise Cowen was taken in Greenwich Village in New York during the 1950s.

This image was adopted from: http://www.writing.upenn.edu/~afilreis/Images/cowen.gif

Beatniks


When I think of a designer whose designs are just plain "cool", unadorned, unique yet chic and simple with a color palette primarily black and neutral, I think of Maison Martin Margiela. A modern day beatnik could definitely be seen wearing his clothes and shoes. In his most recent Fall 2009 runway collection in Paris, the mood and garments are avant-garde, mysterious and brilliant.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Beatniks


Albert Ebaz, head designer at Lanvin, beautifully redefined the looks so characteristic of the 1940s with a modern edge in his most recent Fall 2009 collection in Paris. These garments contain elements of simplicity and eccentricity reminiscent of the beatnik's minds, visions and garments. Whether in New York or Paris, Lanvin keeps it cool.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Teddy Boys

The functionality and "cookie-cutter" style of the 1950s was a complete rejection for the "Teddy Boys" in England. This subculture of young to middle upper class men and women began a social movement and style reminiscent of the Edwardian period that slowly began to trickle up to the upper classes. Their Edwardian style can be seen in this photo taken in London during the 1950s, with the elongated and almost draped men's jackets, skinny ties and slim legged pants.

This image was adopted from: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2338/2401983136_5a5679b726.jpg?v=0

Teddy Boys


One of my favorite designers who has completely resurrected the Edwardian look in her own way is Belgium designer, Ann Demeulemeester. In her recent Fall 2009 show in Paris, Demeulemeester showcases her great talent as a fashion designer through her use of specific draping and tailoring techniques in the shaping of her jackets, collars, ties, dresses and trousers. Her color palette usually remains on the darker side, an almost haunting vision of the Edwardian period.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Teddy Boys


Japanese designer, Limi Feu, capitalizes on the Edwardian look in her recent Fall 2009 show in Japan. The combination of Japanese design and an old English Edwardian look is completely fresh and so interesting to see. Feu also combines a very adrodgynous look to her garments in a very modern way as seen this tailored, yet draped jacket and trousers.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Mods


The Mod Look became very popular in England during the 1960s and was inspired by the new rock n' roll revolution. The construction and design of many of the garments was very linear, hair-cuts for men were longer and somewhat "bowl-shaped", mini-skirts and shift dresses, and the use of bold colors in garments, furniture and art hit the scene as well. Here is a picture of a "Mod" gentleman in London during the 1960s.

This image was adopted from: http://j.bdbphotos.com/fashion/pictures/2L/30/7230_large.jpg

Mods


Philip Lim is a New York-based designer paving the way in "Mod" design. In his most recent Fall 2009 collection, Lim interpreted the "Mod" hair cut, used angular and linear design techniques in his garments and also incorporated the mini-skirt length and shift dress into many of his looks.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Mods


Raf Simmons, head designer for Jil Sander, reinvented the cleanness, modernity and simplicity of the fashion house this year in his Fall 2009 collection in Milan. Simmons broadcasts the "Mod" look with his use of linear and geometric shaping, bold and muted color scheme as well as in the actual simplicity of the chosen shoe.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Hippies

Anti-war and anti-establishment were the prominent discourses heard from the Hippies in the United States during the 1960s. This free love movement created a lot of street trends including jeans, ethnic garments and accessories, long hair and fringed leather jackets and bags. Seen here is a photograph taken of some hippies in California during the 1960s.

This image was adopted from: http://www.thehomegrown.com/gallery/3/Hippies.jpg

Hippies


Other trends initiated by the counter-culture, included wearing a draped style dress in muted colors and ethnic fabrics with ethnic inspired jewelry. Nanette Lapore's Fall 2009 runway show in London, captured this trend in a few of her looks.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Hippies


Hippies also had a knack for layering many garments and textiles, as well as jewelry. Missoni's most recent Fall 2009 collection shown in Italy definitely exemplifies this trend by using multiple layered knits. However, this Missoni look tends to be a little more hippie-chic than hippie.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Disco


The electric sounds and moods of a generation created a distinct look for many people during the 1970s Disco era. Most of the garments were made of synthetic materials, such as polyesters, and were high-waisted, high-collared and highly-embellished.

This image was adopted from: http://www.delswa.co.za/1970.gif

Disco

Brazilian-born designer, Alexandre Herchecovich lit up the runway in New York this year with his disco-tastic designs for his Fall 2009 collection. Sequins were seen from head to toe, from the leggings to the dresses. It seems that every garment can be quite electric with sequins, just like Disco.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Disco

Cristophe Decarnin, head designer for Balmain, was quoted as having "disco fever" when designing his most recent Fall 2009 collection, shown in Paris this year. The entire collections reminds me of a shiny shiny disco ball. The futuristic and synthetic trends of the Disco era can be seen not only in the fabric choices, but also in the sequents and in the shapes of the shoulders.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Punk


Blondie stirred a craze for the music Punk scene in New York City during the late 1970s. The lead singer of the band was Debbie Harry and her style, voice, and persona were so radical at that time period that people instantly fell in love with her. Debbie Harry's look influenced many men and women and it is one that is still being emulated today.

This image was adopted from: http://newsimg.bbc.co.uk/media/images/44834000/jpg/_44834029_debbieharry_getty226282.jpg

Punk


London designer, Luella Bartley, returned to the late 70's Punk days in England with her most recent Fall 2009 collection. From the dramatic spiked hair and heavy embellished garments, to the slashed and layered fabrics and motorcycle boots, Luella hit the Punk street trends right on the head.

This image was adopted from: www.style.com

Punk


Devastee's Fall 2009 runway collection shown in Paris this Spring accurately depicts the trends created by the Punk scene in the late 1970s and early 1980s. One of the biggest fashion trends worn by those within the Punk scene during that time period, was the juxtaposition of black and white with images on a variety of garments, from dresses, to shoes and handbags.

This image was adopted from: http://content.coutorture.com/2886585?page=0,0,0

Hip Hop


New York City was the birthplace of hip hop as early as the 1970s. One of the most influential hip hop artists that brought hip hop to the mainstream during the 1980s was Run DMC from Hollis, Queens. Since hip hop rhythmically brought about social issues for minorities on inner city streets, their clothing also became a reflection of the music which created a social movement still prevalent today.

This image was adopted from: http://a.abcnews.com/images/GMA/nm_rundmc_080514_ssh.jpg

Hip Hop


Geren Ford partnered up with jewelry designers, Ken Leung and Dana Chin of BYLU, to create hip hop and graffiti inspired looks for her Fall 2009 Runway Show. Incorporating the hip hop street trends into high-fashion through jewelry is a way to exhibit the heavy influence that movement and culture had on society in regards to big and bold eccentric jewelry.

This image was adopted from: www.jcreport.com/files/article_images/wuwu.jpg

Hip Hop


G-Star paid homage to the "over-sized" jeans street trend created by the hip hop culture during the 1980s in their most recent Fall 2009 Runway show in New York. G-Star is already known for their denim and this time they dropped the crotch area, added slant pocketing and even darkened the denim to communicate this past street trend in a modern way.

This image was adopted from: http://content.coutorture.com/2827334?page=0,0,3

Friday, April 10, 2009

Renaissance








The Birth of Venus by Botticelli in 1482 is one of my absolute favorite Renaissance Paintings. The Renaissance's rebirth of Humanism is so eloquently depicted in Botticelli's painting(s). The fluidity and preciceness of the lines, colors and textures can be seen in both Botticelli's painting and in the garments of this time period.

These images were adopted from: http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/botticelli/botticelli.venus.jpg and http://www.costumes.org/history/racinet/racinetitalianrenaiss.jpg.

Baroque


Baroque fashions were as extravagant as the relationship between the religious and political upheavals during the 17th Century as well as the art and architecture. There were many religious paintings during this time period, however, through the use of specific colors you can definitely feel the mood of this era. The first image is called the "Death of the Virgin," by Carvaggio in 1606 that is now at the Louvre in Paris and the second image is of Marchesa Brigida Spinola Doria by Peter Paul Rubens, 1606.

These images were adopted from: http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/c/caravagg/07/index.html and http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/index.shtml.

Victorian Gothic


"The Gothic Revival had developed from the 18th century, and was boosted in the 19th by the chivalric writings of Sir Walter Scott, Alfred Lord Tennyson and Thomas Love Peacock. In a period of industrialization there was a new generation of nouveaux riches, self-made industrialists, boastful of their success, who in the architecture of their houses advertised their achievements in tangible form. Many favored the mock Gothic style as a romantic fantasy that implied ancient lineage." (http://www.buffaloah.com/a/archsty/gothic/#Br) This Gothic Revival inspired fashion very distinctly with elaborately designed bustled gowns, corsets, top hats, walking sticks etc. and the use of ornate embroidery.

These images were adopted from: http://www.bc.edu/bc_org/avp/cas/fnart/arch/19thc/albert02.jpg and http://www.artofadornment.ca/webring.htm.

Art Nouveau


The Art Nouveau movement dominated the late 19th Century and early 20th Century throughout Europe and the United States. Art Nouveau was a decorative arts movement which combined both artificial elements as well as nature's organic forms. One designer inspired by this art movement was French designer, Paul Poiret. Poiret's innovative designs incorporated a lot of rich and exotic detailing and fabrics similar to the main ideas of this movement. The first image is a painting by Gustav Klimt called "Nuda Veritas" in 1899 and the second image is of Daisy Irving in a two-tier "lampshade" dress by Poiret in 1910, free of of any bustling and corsets.

These images were adopted from: http://www.practicalpainting.com/Articles/ArtNouveau/Klimt001.htm and http://farm1.static.flickr.com/94/256647717_be9d930ec7.jpg

Surrealism



During the 1920s through the 1940s, Italian-born, French designer, Elsa Schiaparelli changed fashion history when taking inspiration from and collaborating with Surrealist artists. The Surrealist works feature the element of surprise and unexpected juxtapositions, according to Wikipedia, and these elements were very prevalent in Schiaparelli's designs. One of the most prominent Surrealist artists of that time period was Salvador Dali. In this image you see Dali's "Lobster Telephone" from 1936, which inspired Schiaparelli's "Lobster Print Dress" in 1937.

These images were adopted from: http://www.thorninpaw.com/u/htdocs/thorni/image/2607.jpg and http://pics.livejournal.com/unohow2whistle/pic/000356fe/s320x240.

Op Art



"Optical Art is a method of painting concerning the interaction between illusion and picture plane, between understanding and seeing." (www.wikipedia.org) Op art was introduced to the art scene by the early 1960s. A few fashion designers used Op art as inspirations for their garments, especially Mary Quant with her mini-dresses and skirts. Quant used very simple and clean designs made out of materials such as cotton gabardines and PVC.The first image was painted by Op Artist, Bridget Riley, in 1961. The second is Mary Quaint's Op art inspired mini-dress in 1961.

These images were adopted from: www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Op_art and blogs.myspace.com.

Monday, March 30, 2009

Ancient Egypt



The earliest traces of shoes were shown in ancient murals by the Ancient Egyptians around 200 B.C. These shoes are more commonly known as sandals and were made of wood, goatskin and papyrus and many of these sandals had a point at the end as well. The more elaborate sandals, which also had a small heel, were reserved for the Pharaohs and these designs became even more elaborate with gold and jewels with each new rising Pharaoh.


This image was adopted from: http://pro.corbis.com/images/PG13634.jpg?size=67&uid={60E1C267-75D5-4508-8522-D8F842135104}

12th Century - High Middle Ages



Was he really trying to hide his deformed toes? According to history, King Henry II of England created this long pointed boot in order to hide his deformed feet in 1154. Either way, it started a trend in the court and led to the development of pointed shoes up to 30 inches long in the 13th Century. However, these shoes were restricted for Kings and Queens.



This image of King Henry II of England was adopted from: http://media.photobucket.com/image/king%20henry%20II%20%25252B%20pointed%20shoes/midtowng/henryII.jpg

14th Century - Late Middle Ages


The Poulaine or crackowe were extremely long pointed shoes popularized in Poland during the late 14th Century and in the 15th Century. According to Wikipedia, Sometimes the point of the shoe would need support from a whalebone or a string tied to the leg (just below the knee) to stop the point getting in the way when they were walking. King Henry IV of England banned these extreme pointed shoes from being worn in the 16th Century and required all shoes to be a maximum of 2 inches long.

This image was adopted from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poulaine

16th Century - Renaissance



Leonardo da Vinci is credited with inventing the high heel, primarily for Catherine d'Medici's wedding at the age of 14 to the Duke of Orleans in 1533. Catherine d'Medici was so small that she wore these two inch heels to exaggerate her height. These heels set the trend for many women thereafter, including Mary Tudor "Bloody Mary".

This image was adopted from: www.mysexyhiheels.com/history/history.html

18th Century - Rococo Period






From mistress of Louis XV to style icon, Madame Pompadour's narrow pointed embroidered shoes was one of her biggest fashion innovations during the Rococo Period in late 18th Century France. The "Pompadour" was a heel so high and narrow that many women fainted at court because they tried to hide the actual size of their feet. Madame Pompadour had heels with every sort of embellishment, including silver piping, a variety of brocades and silver buckles and she once "wore red heels in defiance of public opinion," according to Eliza Azria in "Costume: Fanciful, Historical, Theatrical".

Two modern shoe designers, Sergio Rossi and Charles David have even created a pump called "Pompadour" after her innovative design.

This image of Madame Pompadour was adopted from: http://ko.wikipedia.org/wiki/%EC%82%AC%EC%9A%A9%EC%9E%90:Applebee/%EB%B2%88%EC%97%AD_%EC%98%88%EC%A0%95_%EB%AC%B8%EC%84%9C/%ED%94%84%EB%9E%91%EC%8A%A4%EC%9D%98_%EB%A3%A8%EC%9D%B4_15%EC%84%B8

The image of Sergio Rossi's Pompadour pump was adopted from: http://lifestyleforlease.com/uploaded/product_images/thumb_big/1232281236Sergio%20Rossi%20pump%20brown%20sz39%20pompadour%20Prima.jpg

Friday, February 20, 2009

History of Tailoring




Where was the first tailored trench coat manufactured? And by who? The Manchester Weather Coat Company has a great article explaining the history of Burberry Trench which was started by Thomas Burberry in Basingstoke in Hampshire in 1856. It began as a quest to keep his customers, such as farmers and agriculturists dry from the rainy conditions. However, after working with a cotton mill owner, they created a woven fabric that not only repelled rain, but was untearable. According to The Manchester Weather Coat Company's article, "Burberry patented this cloth called gabardine in 1879. He then began making all types of gabardine clothes for field sports and items that are today country classics. He opened a shop in London in 1891 and then the firm spread to Paris, Berlin and New York. It has had the royal seal of approval for over a century and Princes, Princesses, Kings and Queens, cult film stars and celebrities, like Kate Moss, have all owned Burberrys. In its original form the trench coat was part of First World War airmen's military uniform. Today it is a classic garment. Throughout the 1990s the House Of Burberry has employed various well known international designers to update its image globally." Check this article out at: http://www.raincoatsdirect.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StaticContentSpot?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10051&spotName=History&pageTitle=History+of+the+Trenchcoat

The Kate Moss for Burberry advertisement picture was adopted from: http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8620/burberrykatemoss1iv.jpg

The World War I trench was adopted from: http://www.popculturepost.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/345px-wwitrenchcoat.jpeg